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“This project is a serious, significant threat facing our people,” says Hotch. Haines is heavily reliant on commercial salmon fishing, as well as tourism – each November, visitors flock to town to watch the largest convocation of bald eagles on the planet gorge on salmon. Even the exploration now under way could irreparably damage the fragile ecosystem, he believes, adding that the town would suffer too. If it gets approved, Hotch worries that contamination from the mine, located under the Saksaia glacier, could destroy the salmon runs they rely on. The mine, known as the Palmer Project, is still in the exploratory stage but financial control of the project was taken over by Dowa – a metals manufacturer and one of Japan’s largest companies – in a move that is seen as giving fresh impetus to the project. “I saw a bumblebee last week and I got real happy,” he laughs. Last year he saw fewer bumblebees, essential for pollination, and the blueberry crop was very disappointing. “We need the snow to keep water cold for the salmon, for the summer blueberries,” says Hotch. Haines’s popular annual fishing derby for largest species of Pacific salmon has been canceled, and now if anyone catches one, it must be released, in the hopes of encouraging their numbers.

King salmon – also known as Chinook – are in particular trouble. “Two summers ago, our mountains were almost totally bare.” In Haines, hardware stores sold out of box fans because it was so hot. “Our mountains used to be snow-capped all year round,” Hotch said.

Here in south-east Alaska, the consequences of the climate crisis are already visible. It is the hub of an ancient trading route – later known as the Dalton Trail – that runs from Haines to Fort Selkirk in Canada. Hotch, a tribal leader, lives in Klukwan, a village that takes its name from the Tlingit phrase “Tlakw Aan” – “the village that has always been”.

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